A five-day walk in the south of Bohemia: Czech Republic, Austria and Germany
Getting there: South Bohemia is easy to get to by the highways of the Netherlands, Germany and Austria. Or a flight to Prague and by public transport to the start (180km’s). Arriving there you will find a region full of old cities and a splendid, protected nature. You can start and end your trail in one of those old cities. We started at Cesky Krumlov. The old town is placed on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Maps: Like everywhere in the Czech Republic you easy can buy walking maps in kiosks and shops. The maps are the maps are very accurate, the routes are shown in colors and the marks on the way - horizontal stripes in various colors- very well maintained.
Accommodation: We mostly slept (and ate) in private pensions: you’ll find plenty of them.
Easter 1992: a round-walk in a part of southern Bohemia, especially through the surroundings of the beautiful city of Cesky Krumlov. With a little site-step to Bavaria in Germany and a short walk in Austria.
Height on trail: 600-1085-1360 m
Day1: Cesky Krumlov - Brloh, crossing Klet mountain (1085m)........................19 km
Day2: Brloh - Volary................................................................................................32 km
Day3: Volary - Haidmühle (Germany)...................................................................18 km
Day4: Haidmühle - Horni Plana: (a short walk in Austria, 1360 m)...................28 km
Day5: Horni Plana - Cesky Krumlov (first kilometers by train: Hořice na Šumavě)...............16 km
Distance between the sections: about 20 km
Along the way:rugged landscape with forests is interspersed with fields, rivers, lakes, hills and mountains.
And rest, lots of rest!
At altitude a lot of snow with Easter. But with beautiful views, including on the Lipno (reservoir) lake, now taken by mass tourism and property developer. Day 4.
The Vltava River also rises nearby.
Česky Krumlov is known to many, but the entire region is dotted with ancient towns and picturesque villages. Cesky Krumlov is the most popular town in the region. No Bohemian town has so much medieval architecture. It is even called little Prague by enthusiasts. Which of course is greatly exaggerated, especially if you know Prague a little bit.....
From Český Krumlov, it is about a 5-kilometer hike to Mount Klet'. An altitude difference of 445 meters. Via and paved forest path to the top for a phenomenal view. And an observatory, a TV tower and excellent garlic soup!
A lodging recommendation after a day of hiking is a family's guesthouse in Kuklov near Brloh. Near the Hrad a klášter Kuklov (castle and monastery of Kuklov). Whether one is still open is not known to us now (2019).
The approach to the mountains of the Sumava National Park goes through almost untouched nature. Occasional villages where - at the time - time seemed to have stood still. Flower meadows, farmland, hilly, with - as we know it in the Czech Republic - well-chosen hiking trails. Follow the color. See for the atmosphere: photo 4 and 8.
Haidmuhle (Germany) has a train connection to Česky Krumlov and Volary. (Highly not-recommended: the hotel on the square in Haidmuhle, Germany.).
Via the Frauenberger und Duschlberger Wald towards Lipno Lake. That means descending from the tri-border point (Tri-border CZ / AT / DE). Try to get to the ferry across the lake to Horni Plana. Alternative: head for the bridge over the Vitava. Which flows into the lake there.
And plunge into the tourism anno 2023 of Horni Plana.
After a bit by train towards Česky Crumlov the last kilometers on foot to this town. The shortest route to walk is about 30 kilometers. But in our view not worth it, everywhere. Try to look for a nice walking route on the map from, for example, Chalupa Hořice na Šumavě.
Click here for a report of our walk in Bohemia south west (Sumava)
Below a short, occasionally photoshopped video about Cesky Krumlov: